And now for something fishy...

After tourism and coconut processing the fishing trade is probably the principal occupation of many Samui families, and those of the neighbouring islands and coastal villages of Surat thani's mainland. All but driven out of the 'Fisherman's Village' of Bophut by new developments, many of the smaller boats seem to have relocated conveniently adjacent to the fish market near Big Buddha.

These small boat fishermen aim to catch anything they can, usually with a casting net. We see the same technique being used daily from the beach, sometimes netting a few sardine type small fish if they are lucky. A small boat offers the opportunity for greater scope and the chance to try for bigger fish species in open water. The technique here involves a bigger net deployed as a barrier into which fish are driven by whacking the water with a paddle or the creative use of what looks like a long handled rubber toilet plunger. The intended result being to encourage the fish to flee from the disturbance in the opposite direction and hopefully, into the net.

We've often noted two or more boats working together to deploy bigger nets and create more disturbance in unison. In season, these small boats may carry batteries and lights at night with which to attract squid which abound in the seas around the islands. But their principal catch is the small fish which, boned and gutted, can be seen (and smelled) drying on racks in fishing villages throughout the islands.

Drying fish attract swarms of flies, as in the photo above, which render the finished product a serious health hazard if eaten uncooked. Flies have got to eat and I don't have an issue with that. It's their crapping and vomiting and stomping it into the fish with their six legs that puts me off. Anyway, air-dried and deep-fried, the fish, served with a spicy mango salad and now called Pla Det Diow, becomes $30 worth of fancy starter course in a high end restaurant. Lip-smackingly good and a popular menu item among those unaware of their initial preparation, or previous diners - I'll pass thanks.

The next category of fishermen operate and often live aboard the small trawlers that land most of Samui's seafood and are a ubiquitous site at many of the islands' fishing harbours. Often seen huddled together inshore predicting the imminent arrival of a storm at sea

roped together for stability is a sure sign a storm is on its way

A third type of fishing boats operating in the water around Samui and neighbouring islands in huge fleets are dedicated to catching squid and the more meatier cuttlefish. These boats operate at night deploying high intensity lighting booms with which to attract the molluscs.

Although operating in large commercial fleets, squid fishing is very much a family affair withthe crew and their families living aboard. The boat can be home to as many as twenty people.

Flying in to Samui at night the squid fishing fleet make a spectacular site, with their thousands of huge bulbs forming eery chains and clusters of light and the glow is often visible, beyond the horizon from our beach in Bophut.

Grass 'em up?

I like this invitation from 'Crimestoppers', spotted on Koh Pha Ngan, our neighbouring island, to report dope growing.

It suggests that the forbidden botany will be tracked down by informers' reports of 'unusual traffic' or 'anything suspicious'. Jeez. I wish I had a $s for all the unusual traffic and suspicious goings-on I've seen in Thailand!

Given to bar owners or anyone else that wants one, the added value provided by the calendar is a strong incentive to display the sign for the use of customers. Assuming, of course, the bar's patrons want to know what day it is.

Just a thought. I wonder how many of the island's bong sellers are undercover policemen? And do they follow their customers?

It could have been worse...

It could have been a 24/7 Korean karaoke bar going up next door, or a multi-outlet food palace specialising in fermented fish dishes to cause us permanent loss of revenue and value, creating stress and anguish for life. As it is, the construction that temporarily intrudes into the life of Baan Bophut is to be the retirement home of a nice Australian couple. And, if you were to ask me - they could not have chosen a nicer spot.

Immediately to the west of us, the noise is worse in rooms 1 and 5

The heavy construction of the villa is largely complete, without too many complaints of disturbance from guests, who knew we couldn't do anything about it. But in recent days the noise had driven a couple booked-in for a week to seek somewhere quieter. Of course we understood their need for peaceful relaxation (it's why we exist!) and gave them a lift.

Investigation revealed that a large beam on the first floor, front elevation, had a bulge as a result of the concrete formwork buckling and a hammer-drill of sorts was used to remove the offending excess concrete, as you can see in the close-up.

Fingers crossed, the jackhammering is over, but we know from our own experience that, as finishing commences, nothing can be more annoying when one is trying to relax on the beach than the sound of an angle grinder-cutting tiles to size. And we give you fair warning if, as a guest, you intend to stick around the hotel all day.

Ocean Suite Number 9 - a teasing preview

Ocean Suite, highlighted in yellow

As a consequence of slithering into operation as a hotel on the day of the 2004 tsunami, four months ahead of schedule (see previous post: It all seems a long time ago ...), we somehow came to employ room 9, one of Baan Bophut's most spacious seaview rooms, as the combined linen and store room. It started as a temporary arrangement, as many of these things do, but evolved to seemingly irreversable permanence very quickly. In the end, and using the hotel's low season maintenance closure in May, Lucy tackled the issue. The contents of room 9 were sorted and moved to occupy the two unpopular, road facing rooms (10 & 13) on the 1st and 2nd floors. The new suite now uses much of the furniture from these former guest rooms.

It wasn't a straightforward conversion. Since Baan Bophut's construction, B1 Villa had opened for business next door and room 9's veranda now faced a wall of custard coloured paint just a metre and a half away. So, builders bricked-up and integrated the former veranda seemlessly into a new double bedroom.

A door and wall were constructed to create a second room into which Lucy has opted to put two single beds. A set of secure double doors at the end of the first floor corridor now gives access to the suite and its own veranda overlooking the restaurant deck, pool and beach.

View from the Ocean Suite

We love Orchids...

Orchids belong to the most diverse family of flowering plants known to man. There are over 28,000 species and well over 300,000 registered cultivars currently documented. The number of orchid species equals about four times the number of mammal species or more than twice the number of bird species. It also encompasses about 6–11% of all seed plants. About 800 new orchid species are added each year.

These numbers only begin to tell the true story behind the evolutionary success of modern day orchids. Orchids are the most rapidly (genetically) changing group of plants on earth and more new species have been discovered over the last few thousand years than any other plant group known.

Although orchids are commonly thought of as tropical flowers, they grow naturally in almost all climates other than deserts and glaciers. Despite their versatility, there is something distinctly exotic about orchids. They are intricately beautiful to the everyday flower lover and are considered to be some of the world’s most evolved flowers to flower specialists. Of the many orchid varieties, the Phalaenopsis (or Moth), Cymbidium, and Dendrobium orchids are the most popular types, and the Vanilla Orchid (and its vanilla bean) is the most highly produced variety.

The orchid species of lithophytes grow on rocks or very rocky soil, others grow terrestrially, but a majority of orchids are perennial epiphytes which grow anchored to trees or shrubs in the tropics.

Inspired by the epiphytes, and because they look so pretty we've just had about 55-60 beautiful orchid plants attached to five of our coconut palms. Chopped husk and fibre are the growing medium and trimmed coconut husks are used to hold the plants against the trunk. Symbiotic or what?

The orchids are perilously exposed to strong-salt laden winds and we really don't know if they will survive the inevitable battering from the on-shore winds of the soon to arrive monsoon, but they're receiving a lot of TLC from the staff and, as with all things, we live in hope.

We always have orchids in the hotel. Usually in reception and always on the tables in the restaurant.

Tik will often decorate cocktails with orchids or fruit and if he has run out at the bar it's usually from the restaurant table decorations that he will pillage replacements. We have no intention of 'farming' our new orchids and will still buy-in for decoration. Tik is under strict instructions not to use the new stock for his cocktails. He will be tempted by their proximity and hopefully, their abundance.

Chiang Mai - a nice contrast with Samui

We had a really enjoyable weekend in this lovely city, with Lucy and Jonny. It was the first time that Olwen and I had visited the north and we appreciated the cooler weather and the very different, laid-back aspect of Thailand that we hadn't experienced before. I must say that stall holders and trinket sellers like the lady above seemed less 'pushy' than on Samui and went away smiling if their wares were politely refused. Mai pen rai (roughly: 'it doesn't matter') being the most frequent response. It was also a very pleasant change to be in a city that had some history, with ancient temples, architecture and a moat around the walled city to match.

Lucy's mission was to order additional bar furniture for Baan Bophut, but also to meet her rocking horse supplier for whom she acts as a sales agent in horse-mad Dubai and the Arabian Gulf. Both objectives fulfilled, we had time to spare for the Night Market.

I was particularly intrigued by the small colony of 'artists' located in the basement level of the covered portion of the market.

They all seem wholly occupied in scaling-up and copying photographs, usually in charcoal, to an astounding degree of realism that is almost indistinguishable from a high resolution photograph. I didn't see anyone creating original images. Such is the level of precision that many visitors (and residents for all I know) ask that their photos be copied, usually of their kids, confident that the resulting likeness will be an identical replica.

So, are these very talented guys artists or highly skilled technicians? I've had the discussion with both Olwen and Lucy and we hold differing opinions, so I'd appreciate your thoughts. But I go along with sculptor Henry Moore who said "Art is the expression of imagination, not the duplication of reality."

We rounded out the visit with various purchases including northern delicacies, such as Moo grob - crispy pork rinds which, as you can see in the image below, were much appreciated by some of our staff. There is no direct flight between Samui and Chiang Mai, but Bangkok Airways have a scheduled flight going the other way, so thankfully, we were able to avoid any of the protest hassles in Bangkok that on the day of our departure, had already closed Phuket airport.

Ang Thong National Marine Park - a great day out...

Ang Thong Marine Park is a fascinating archipelago of 80 or so islands to the north west of Samui, many of which rise from the sea as dramatic rock cliffs and bizarre rock formations. Caves, hidden lagoons and white sand beaches are there to be explored and snorkeling among the shallow coral gardens makes a popular and enjoyable day trip. Remember to wear a T-shirt when snorkling; it's easy to become absorbed in the marine spectacle and forget that you are being toasted.

Ang Thong, translates as 'golden bowl', occupies almost 250 sq km and includes 50 sq km of limestone islands and karsts topography. Most of the islands are close to each other making for a breathtaking panorama when sailing around the park. The park itself is inhabited by a surprising amount of asian wildlife and within the seas: dolphins, rays, turtles and frequent sightings of whale sharks by divers and snorklers.

Most of the islands are covered with tropical forests and named after their distinguishing geography, a kind of descriptive appellation, such as 'Sleeping Cow Island' and 'Three Pillar Island'.

Koh Mae Ko (Mother Island) is a must to visit. Here, an emerald seawater lake in the middle of the island is encircled on all sides by limestone cliffs, but linked by an underground tunnel connecting with the sea. Reaching the lake entails a strenuous climb of 40 minutes or so, but is rewarded with a spectacular view across the whole park

Sea caves in many of the islands have intriguing rock formations and a visit to one by canoe can make for an awesome experience. The beaches are surrounded with coral reefs which make for good swimming and snorkeling when the visibility is good. Hundreds of beaches here in the archipelago are deserted. Get a boat and find your own secret beach away from the crowds.

Other popular sites are Koh Sam Sao (Tripod Island) with an extensive coral reef and Wua Talap Island or 'sleeping cow'. The park headquarters is located on the island with basic bungalow accommodation. It takes some effort to climb up the steep 430m hill to a viewpoint offering great scenery of the entire archipelago and the mainland.

Access to the Marine Park is controlled, but several boat rental and kayak operators are licenced carriers, catering to both independent visitors and in organised kayaking/camping trips. The most common transport is by tour boats taking 40-50 people, with lunch on board. Or else you can take the faster speedboat tours, which also provide a snorkeling program. The best way is to put together a group of friends to hire a boat, as we did, and explore the islands and beaches in your own time.

The quickest way back to Samui: time flies when you're in a coma - Lucy & Jonny

Here's a plug for Mario and great gastro-tip for you...

Our favourite (non-Thai) restaurant in Bophut's Fisherman's Village. Mario, the owner of Alla Baia offers simple, authentic, northern Italian food, well prepared, tasty and satisfying. Everything on the menu is great value for money and doesn't deviate from the original recipes established by his mother. And she comes for two months every year to check! Located 25m past the pier (the bar and marine structure) heading into the village, the best tables are, obviously, those overlooking the water.

My favourite winning combo is beef carpaccio followed by spaghetti Amatriciana - a tomato sauced based, smokey pancetta flavoured delight, especially with a chilli hit in the sauce. Other family favourites are the sublime ravioli with crab sauce, penne Arabiata and my newly discovered all time best pizza: tomato base; anchovies, capers, black olives and spicy salami - all on Mario's crisply thin pizza base, with three chopped chillies and easy on the cheese.

We like (love) fresh chopped chilli and at Alla Baia they are diner-defined - just tell the waiter how many you want in your sauce or pizza or alternatively, for non at all.

The house wine is good and, for special family occasions, the glorious Amarone della Valpolicella, while not cheap, is better value than it is in Dubai - or Venice!

There's usually a good selection of fresh fish on ice to choose from displayed out front and I can recommend the spaghetti ala vongole (clams) especially when they are at their smallest and sweetest.

I'm an unreconstructed dessert guy. On many occasions we've eaten Thai, usually at Pee Chet, and dived into Mario's just for his sublime profiteroles or Mama's tirmisu, washed down with an espresso and grappa or a liqueur - to settle the stomach.

a rare shot of the usually stellar busy Mario, relaxing at the end of service

Catching up...

Cheap Charlie's Sukhumvit Soi 11. A popular meeting point and watering hole

After almost a week with Lucy in Bandon Hospital; the same in my Dubai hospital bed and ten days back at work, catching up has been the name of my game this month. This will continue, but on the hotel side in the coming couple of weeks, as we leave for our holiday in Thailand tonight. Me and the missus meet up with Lucy and Jonny at Cheap Charlie's in Bangkok tomorrow night, before taking a short break to Chiang Mai together. I'll provide a trip report next week, hopefully.

But in the meanwhile, Pee Yok our new chef at the hotel, and around whom our plans for the redesign and evening opening of Baan Bophut's new restaurant depends so much, has slipped at home and fractured her hip, inevitably delaying plans. Poor Yok. More on this when we get down to Samui next week.

In other bad news, our interior designer, whose team are currently converting the former Room 9 linen store into our first suite, received the tragic news that her father had died today. She's on her way to Europe, and while her decorators continue the work, we're unlikely to have the Ocean Suite ready for occupancy until after she returns.

Dengue Fever - up close and personal...

Aedes aegypti mosquito obtains a "blood meal." The A. aegypti mosquito is the primary vector for dengue and yellow fevers. (Credit: Image courtesy of Cornell University)

After malaria, Dengue (pronounced deng-GAY) fever is the most common disease transmitted to and between humans by mosquitos, and the most significant emerging disease among international travelers, with a 30-fold increase in incidence over the past 50 years worldwide.

Dengue includes four distinct viruses or serotypes. All are mostly transmitted via the bite of Aedes mosquitoes which become infected with dengue after taking a blood meal from a dengue-infected person. Most cases are mild. Symptoms include fever, rash, headache, and intense pain behind the eyes, muscles and joints. There is no cure for dengue infection, but management of the disease's effects can prevent the worst outcomes.

According to the WHO, dengue hemorrhagic fever (DHF), the most serious of the serotypes, is characterised by fever, low platelet count, clinical evidence of leaking capillaries, and spontaneous bleeding or fragile blood vessels. The most serious cases can lead to dengue shock – a drop in blood pressure and failure of blood cells to meet the metabolic demands of the body. DHF is a leading cause of death among children in Southeast Asia. In recent years hemorrhagic dengue, which is common throughout the sub-continent and Southeast Asia, has become increasingly prevalent in Africa and tropical America.

It's possible to become infected with dengue fever multiple times, but an attack of dengue produces immunity for a lifetime to that serotype to which the patient was exposed.

So why am I telling you all this? Because Lucy contracted DHF and I flew to Samui to be with her last week. Fortunately, she checked into the island's Bandon Hospital and started receiving treatment promptly to reduce the fever and relieve some of her discomfort. Lucy's blood was checked several times daily and only when her platelet and white cell count started, finally, to rise, at which time the DHF antibodies were detected, would the doctor agree to discharge her.

Occasionally hard to spot in her hospital issue matching pajamas and bed linen, I like to think that Lucy's recovery was hastened by the visits and gifts of 'Chicken Essence' from friends and Baan Bophut's Thai hotel staff. Here, Lucy is pictured clinging to her stock (unintended pun - ignore) of the restorative, often given by Thai's in much the same manner that westerners would take grapes to a friend in hospital.

Dengue II - the unintended sequel...

Even as I was writing the last post my own blood pressure and platelet count was falling as I too succumbed to dengue fever, having shared a mosquito too many with Lucy before she was clear of her own infection, either as we sat together in the hospital garden on the day before she was discharged, or in the car the day I took her home.

Having spent the previous week with Lucy, I had a pretty good idea what I was in for when I checked into Dubai's American Hospital last Tuesday night, but nothing had prepared me for the magnitude of discomfort wrought by the symptoms in combination.

Anyway, it's taken six days of saline drip and numerous painkillers and TLC by the hospital staff to bring me to the point, today, when my platelet count showed an increase at last and dengue antibodies were confirmed as being present, enabling me to be discharged.

My infection was as a result of my own stupidity in not taking any of the precautions to limit my attraction to mosquitos. A DEET based repellent would have saved me an awful lot of pain and a week's misery. A Dengue epidemic has been declared in Rayong province and Bangkok is seeing unprecedented levels of infection. However, the chances of a visitor catching dengue during a two week holiday are estimated at over 10,000:1 and much less if basic mosquito bite avoidance is applied.

Perceptions...

Only half the Hotel Family Holt now remain in the Middle East, but for the last 16 of our almost 30 years in and around the Arabian Gulf, Yemen and Turkey - we that remain have lived in Dubai. Numerous articles and blogs are dedicated to the phenomenal growth of this young city, tracking its progress (?) from tiny sheikhdom and trading port to global business and leisure destination. This isn't about to become another, merely an excuse to share the irony of the sign above. And get this out of the way.

The name Bin Ladin to many readers will conjure-up an image of the World's most evil and, currently, most wanted fugitive. To us and many other Gulf expats, Bin Ladin the construction giant are significant contributors to the startling growth and modernity of Dubai and elsewhere in the region.

After 9/11, fed by the misrepresentation of Fox News (don't get me started) and other news media spawned the perception that as a race, Arabs were 'Terrorists' and Islam became inseparable in the minds of many from 'Fundamentalism'. The truth is, from a nominally christian family that has chosen to live their lives in Islamic societies for so long, among the kindest, gentlest, smartest, most generous and hard working people we have ever met, have been muslims.

There, I've said it now.

A thoughtful rant...

Having recently employed a new chef and staff for the long withheld evening opening of our restaurant, we will shortly start to promote ourselves locally. But as for the hotel, I don't think we pay for any advertising at Baan Bophut, not because we're skinflints, we spend our advertising budget on beer instead. We simply don't know where to direct our message. Let's face it, Samui's no longer a backpacker destination and the droves of travelers and gap year students who at one time would avidly devour the local brochures and listing leaflets for a cheap beach bungalow are not that evident anymore. Neither are the cheap beach bungalows.

Our target market is the new and growing breed of independent traveler. They book their own airtickets and they choose their own accommodation on their computer at home or like me, the office. Universally, they shun tour operators and packaged holidays, much like ourselves. Good for them! Airtickets they find through the numerous online bucket shops and their hotel, increasingly through TripAdvisor, who now have over 100,000,000, (you read it right, a hundred million visitors) a month checking out their choices of hotel accommodation. Thankfully, they don't all review their eventual selection.

Guest reviews can make or break a hotel. As hoteliers, we know we have a responsibility to make a guest's stay as enjoyable as we can and exceed their expectations whenever possible. Baan Bophut is a small hotel, so we've a better chance than most, but big or small, guest reviews are, to stretch a couple of metaphors, a double edged Sword of ...what's his name? The Greek guy - Damocles (thanks Google).

Guest's hotel reviews, of which TripAdvisor is the biggest repository are the best thing that could have happened to prospective hotel guests, who can now develop a better understanding of what the hotel of their choice is actually going to be like and build an expectation. If a hotel matches it or beats it, great, they get a good review. But if they fail to perform or, worryingly, fail meet the same standard enjoyed by a previous positive reviewer. Oh boy! you're in for it now.

It was with a measure of some relief that today, I noted, Baan Bophut had slipped in its TripAdvisor ranking from 6 last week to 15. As far as I could see, because of one review that scored us 3 (out of 5) and described the hotel as having a 'cold atmosphere' (that's a new one). I don't know how TripAdvisor's algorithm calculates the ranking, but I'm much happier at 15 than sixth, and so somewhat removed from the imminent and ever-present peril and sense of foreboding faced by those in the top ten.

An Irish guy, pleasant chap and a guest at the hotel with his miserable wife, once told me that his missus would give us a lousy review. I thought we'd looked after them well and asked why. "She always does" he replied (can't do the accent) "It's her time of life". Hell's teeth! How do you get around that one?

My advice for what its worth? Be objective and keep your expectations fairly low. That way you're unlikely to be too disappointed, and less likely to stiff the hotel that inevitably, can't get everything right for all of its guests, all of the time.

Spirit Houses and just why we had to have one...

Animism or spirit worship has been widely practiced in Asia for thousands of years and in Thailand it was well established well before Buddhism first arrived over 2500 year ago. Today, spirit worship is intertwined with Buddhist belief.

A spirit house or san phra phum in Thai, provides an appealing earthly shelter for the spirits, who would otherwise reside in some celestial place. These benevolent, but sometimes mischievous spirits, protect the home or business of the owner and building occupants. A spirit house is especially appealing to the departed ancestors of those who most frequently use the building.

A typical spirit house is populated with representations of ancestors, a ceramic white haired old couple and, inexplicably, a trio of porcelain dancing girls in our case. Incense sticks and offerings of flowers, whisky and soft drinks are intended to encourage occupancy. Hard to get, bright red Fanta Cream Soda is thought to be particularly enticing.

A former Baan Bophut cook was visibly relieved when our own spirit house was inaugurated and received its formal blessing (pictured) as she claimed that her grandmother's spirit would no longer have to come in the kitchen and distract her from her duties. We don't mess up so much in the kitchen these days, but I don't know if that's because the cook left or her grandmother's spirit found a new home. Either way: spirit houses - take your chances without one.

Khoom Fay: Thai hot air lanterns - What's that all about?

We have a curious relationship with these paper hot air balloons. We usually have some in Reception, but otherwise buy them in bulk from a small shop in Maenam, but they're also available in the village. A Taiwanese guest once told me that they were invented thousands of years ago in China, as a means of signaling from one village to the next. Here they're lit for the spectacle, especially at Loy Kratong and New Year.

I can't recall how we came to start writing messages on the balloons to our dead relatives and friends, but it's not something we would have dreamed up for ourselves. I think the practice might be routed in the animist tradition of ancestor worship, otherwise manifested in daily Thai life through the Spirit Houses that are evident outside many Thai homes and businesses (see next entry) including Baan Bophut.

However it started, it's become something of a family tradition to remember departed relatives and friends. It's good to make time to remember happy times with those to whom we were close and it doesn't do any harm - so long as they're kept away from the thatched roof of the bar.

Chanchao's Thai Travel Menu

"Arguably, some of the best and cheapest food in Thailand is literally on the street, or in small informal restaurants. Trouble is, many of these places don’t have a menu! Or if they do have a menu, it may be in Thai language only. This makes these places far less convenient for foreign visitors than they could be. With this ‘generic’ menu you have a good overview of what dishes are typically available, and you can point at the Thai translation to tell the cook or waitress your order."

Check out this excellent primer on eating Thai street food. Go There.

One of the best investments we ever made...

Apart from getting hooked up to the municipal water supply when it finally arrived at our end of the street the best improvement we made to Baan Bophut was to build our little beach bar - The Spirit House.

photo credit: Chris Lyon - friend & guest

It's the focal point we needed for guests to meet and mingle, and an idyllic location for a sundowner or three. It really is the perfect spot to enjoy some of Samui's glorious sunsets, and unlike many of the bars in the village, we usually catch the cooling onshore breeze that can pick up at the same time.

Quite apart from paying for itself quite quickly, it must have saved us a fortune as, for our family at least, it's become our favourite haunt of an evening. Since these photos were taken, the bar has been extended by about 70 cm to the west to create more space for when we need to use two barmen. The bar's decking has also been extended by 1.5m all around in response to guests' claims that they fell off - yeah right. Another table and additional stools are currently en route from Chiang Mai.

We must admit that a large part of the bar's draw is barman Tik, an intelligent, intensely curious and entertaining card-shark. He's been warned not to take money from guests, no matter how convinced they know where the queen is, or whatever. Like most Thais, Tik is also an enthusiastic cook and responsible for both, the idea and the implementation of our ever popular seafood dinners on the beach.

Irrepressible barman and card trickster Tik